I decided to break away from ancient history this evening and give you an idea of what modern Cairo is like.
First, the traffic is unbelievable. The constant beeping of horns is the music of Cairo, as buses, cars, motorcycles (carrying up to five people) donkey drawn carts and pedestrians share the streets of Cairo. Lane markings are evidently just for decoration. Vehicles of all descriptions and ages change lanes, or better yet create their own lane, drive the wrong way on one way streets, and generally disregard any and every traffic law as casually as you or I would flip on a turn signal (which they never do). The one control are massive speed bumps placed randomly that do slow down the flow of traffic, at least temporarily.
One of the things we observed as we were driven around Cairo were many unfinished apartment buildings. It was not unusual to see buildings with ground floor businesses, then one or two floors of finished looking walls (having windows and balconies). Above or between these finished levels were totally unfinished levels with no windows or other enclosures.
We learned, during one of our talks on the ship, that young men in Cairo live with their parents until they are married. But they do go ahead and buy an unfinished apartment. Really, really unfinished. Outside walls, some interior divisions, but no windows, flooring or any other finishing. There's not a lot of concern about rain damage. When the young man "feels the spark" (our guide's term) and decides to get married he can honestly tell his future father-in-law that he owns an apartment. Once they are officially engaged, his fiancee goes to work selecting flooring, light fixtures, kitchen cabinets, furniture and anything else she thinks they need. By the time they get married everything is ready. They do not live together before they are married.
If they should happen to get divorced, the wife keeps the apartment. The children, if there are any stay with her. Women get married at about age 29, men about 33 or older. Women often do keep working in their careers but it's their choice once they are married. There is a substantial dowery involved, contributed to by both sides of the family.
A view of the lobby ceiling of the hotel we stayed in for our last night in Egypt. One of Cairo's finest.Notice the stream of traffic on the bridge at the left side of the picture, now imagine everyone of those cars beeping non stop. Happily, when we closed our window it did block out the sound. This picture was taken from the balcony of our 8th floor room in the hotel we stayed in for our first four nights in Egypt.